E and I went out for supper last night. It was at her behest. There was negotiation involved. I wanted to go to Jerry’s Fish House. She wanted to go to Aladdin. So what’s halfway between catfish and Mediterranean food? How about slightly high brow Tex-Mex?

Here’s what they have to say about themselves:

Sombra Mexican Kitchen redefines Mississippi’s idea of a Mexican restaurant. From the fresh-squeezed limejuice and organic agave nectar in every margarita to the made-from-scratch corn and flour tortillas, Sombra focuses on the fresh, flavorful tastes that are at the core of our authentic food and drink. The rustic, colorful and casual environment will allow you to sit back, take your time, and enjoy Sombra’s modern take on traditional Mexican and Southwest dining.

I don’t feel as though they’ve redefined anything. Besides cheap (which it wasn’t), they hit all of the expected features of Tex-Mex: free chips and (pretty good) salsa, a decent frozen margarita, and lots of dishes that are combinations of meat, cheese and tortillas. The biggest disappointment of the night was the fact that the one item on the menu that seemed exciting, the black bean and goat cheese tamale, was unavailable. They told us that right up front and I was immediately at a loss for what to order. I feel like fajitas are too much of a spectacle. I didn’t see any variety meat tacos (lengua, cabeza, buche). And I just wasn’t feeling much of what else was available. I went with the catfish tacos. E got the shrimp fajitas. Neither blew the doors off. It’s downright unMississippian to bread catfish with anything other than cornmeal. And fajitas are fajitas are fajitas. Meat and peppers and onions.

They do make their own tortillas, which is a nice touch. Still, this place won’t go in the heavy rotation, with the exception of a place to go for drinks, chips/salsa/guacamole al fredo in warm weather. Yes, I know that’s a Malapropism.

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